Leaving Miyajima: Why the Best Journeys Never Go as Planned
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In my previous story, I shared an unexpected discovery at Itsukushima Shrine—how a simple question about Benzaiten led me into the fascinating history of Shinto and Buddhism in Japan.
Today is the final chapter of my rainy journey to Miyajima Island.
And, perhaps, it is my favorite.
Sometimes the Best Meal Is the One You Don't Have
After visiting Daiganji Temple, I decided it was finally time to enjoy one of Miyajima's most famous local dishes:
anago-meshi, grilled conger eel served over rice.
It had recently been featured on television, so I happily walked toward the restaurant.
Only to find a sign on the door.
Closed for the day.
"Oh no..."
I couldn't help laughing.
Travel has a wonderful way of reminding us that not everything goes according to plan.
A Temple I Never Planned to Visit
Still walking through the rain, I came across another temple.
Its name was Daishō-in.
Near the entrance stood several small stone Jizō statues with gentle expressions.
They seemed to welcome everyone who passed by.
"Maybe I'll take a quick look," I thought.
I had no idea what was waiting inside.
The temple grounds unfolded one surprise after another.
A peaceful garden filled with hundreds of stone statues.
A hall dedicated to the Seven Lucky Gods.
A waterfall hidden among the trees.
Even the imposing figure of Enma, the guardian judge of Buddhist tradition.
With every few steps, something new appeared.
I immediately thought,
"I wish I had more time here."
But the rain had become even heavier.
Holding an umbrella with one hand, lifting the hem of my dress with the other, and carefully avoiding puddles, I barely had enough freedom to take photographs.
Instead of feeling disappointed, though, I found myself smiling.
Now I had another reason to return.
Tasting Hiroshima, One Bite at a Time
By then, I had been walking alone for almost two hours.
It was definitely time for lunch.
First came freshly grilled oysters.
Then crispy fried oysters.
And, of course, a glass of highball whisky.
Travel somehow makes enjoying a midday drink feel perfectly acceptable.
Next came Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, layered with noodles instead of mixed together like the version from Osaka.
Naturally, another highball followed.
Everything tasted even better after a long walk in the rain.
A Delicious Mistake
Before leaving Miyajima, I wanted to try one last local specialty.
Age Momiji.
I had read about it before and thought it was a deep-fried version of the island's famous maple leaf-shaped cake, Momiji Manjū.
So I ordered one.
But when it arrived...
It wasn't what I expected at all.
I had accidentally ordered a fried fish cake from a different shop.
For a moment, I simply stared at it.
Then I laughed.
Fortunately, it was absolutely delicious.
By then, I was already full, so I decided to save the real Age Momiji for my next visit.
Sometimes mistakes become the tastiest memories.
The Best Souvenirs Are Reasons to Return
Before leaving home, I had carefully planned this journey.
It was an auspicious day.
Traveling west felt meaningful.
Everything seemed perfectly arranged.
Yet when I looked back, the moments that stayed with me were the ones I never planned.
The restaurant that had already closed.
The unexpected beauty of Daishō-in Temple.
The history of Benzaiten.
The delicious mistake.
The rain.
None of these had been on my itinerary.
Yet each one became part of the story I would bring home.
Perhaps travel isn't about completing every plan.
Perhaps it's about discovering new reasons to come back.
Until We Meet Again
As the ferry pulled away from Miyajima, I looked back one last time.
The great vermilion torii stood quietly in the rain, just as it had when I first arrived.
There was something comforting about its stillness.
It almost felt as though it were saying,
"Come back again."
And I know I will.
Perhaps in another season.
When the rain has given way to sunshine.
Or perhaps, once again, beneath gentle gray skies.
Because every season tells a different story.
And every journey leaves another waiting to begin.
