Following a Morning Drama to Matsue — Quiet Temples, Ghost Stories, and a Summer Evening

After leaving Izumo Taisha, we followed the shoreline of Lake Shinji, one of Japan's largest brackish lakes, and made our way toward the historic castle town of Matsue.

The afternoon light shimmered across the water, and the drive itself felt like part of the journey.

Sometimes, the road between destinations becomes a destination of its own.

Visiting a Temple from a TV Story

Our first stop in Matsue was Gesshoji Temple.

Recently, it became well known as one of the filming locations for the NHK morning drama Bakebake, a series inspired by the life of Setsu Koizumi, the wife of writer Lafcadio Hearn (known in Japan as Koizumi Yakumo).

The opening sequence of the drama gently moves through scenes of Matsue, accompanied by the warm folk music of Humbert Humbert.

Among those images, one place had stayed in my memory.

Standing there in the bright summer sunshine, I felt as though I had quietly stepped into the opening scene itself.

The bench where the two main characters sat was still there.

Of course, I couldn't resist sitting down for a photo.

Perhaps this is what people call a pilgrimage to a favorite filming location.

The Turtle That Wasn't

There was one surprise.

For the longest time, I had been convinced that the enormous stone statue in the temple grounds was a turtle.

Then I read the explanation beside it.

It was actually... a dragon.

I couldn't help laughing.

"It still looks like a turtle to me."

When I mentioned this to someone at the temple, they smiled and told me that during the TV drama's broadcast, many visitors came here because of the show.

I completely understood.

Sometimes a story inspires us to visit a place we might never have discovered otherwise.

By the time we arrived, a few months had passed since the series had ended, and the temple had returned to its usual quiet atmosphere.

We were able to wander peacefully through the grounds at our own pace.

Walking Through the World of Lafcadio Hearn

Next, we visited the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum and the house where Hearn and his wife Setsu once lived.

Hearn was a writer who introduced Japanese folklore and ghost stories to readers around the world more than a century ago.

Learning more about the couple's life together made me appreciate the television drama even more.

Like many historical dramas, it included fictional elements, but it was clear that the story had been built upon genuine historical research and respect for the people who lived it.

The traditional house overlooked a small Japanese garden.

Even in the intense summer heat, time seemed to move more slowly there.

It was one of those peaceful moments that stay with you long after a trip has ended.

A Bowl of Summer Relief

By then, the heat had become almost unbearable.

So we searched for something cold.

I ordered matcha shaved ice topped with sweet red beans, rice dumplings, and condensed milk.

The first few spoonfuls were perfect.

Cold.

Sweet.

Refreshing.

Then came the familiar headache that arrives when you eat shaved ice just a little too quickly.

I laughed at myself.

Even that became part of the memory.

An Evening Made for Wandering

After checking into our hotel and taking a short rest, we headed out for dinner.

Matsue isn't a city of skyscrapers or giant shopping districts.

Instead, its streets are lined with small restaurants, neighborhood pubs, and cozy places that invite you to step inside.

As we walked, we kept saying,

"That place looks nice."

"Maybe we'll try that one next time."

It's the kind of town where exploring on foot is part of the fun.

Good food.

Local sake.

Easy conversation.

The perfect ending to a long summer day.

The Quiet Gift of Travel

Our day had taken us from Izumo Taisha to Matsue.

We visited places connected to a television story, learned more about the lives of Lafcadio Hearn and Setsu, and ended the day with good food and quiet streets.

This trip began because of an old Japanese custom called kippō-ryokō, or traveling in an auspicious direction.

But no miracle happened.

Instead, we discovered unfamiliar places, learned unexpected stories, and shared the same beautiful scenery together.

Perhaps that is the true gift of travel.

Not something extraordinary—

just the quiet richness of seeing the world, one place at a time.

Our journey continues in the next chapter, with a peaceful morning in Matsue.